Dressed to Kill, Dressed to Till
This handsome suit of English-tailored clothing was made for a gentleman of rather large proportion, standing at least 6 feet in height, with a 44 chest and 38 waist. The coat, waistcoat and breeches are all of a deep blue superfine, wool broadcloth. The coat is single-breasted, with standing cape or collar and cutaway in the late 18th century manner, but the cut, which includes narrow back and high armscye, suggests that it dates no earlier than c. 1805. It is trimmed with 1 1/16 in. diameter buttons of silver embroidery, including bullion and sequins, on a linen ground formed on a bone or wood mould, 8 down the breast, three on each round cuff (one missing from right cuff), three under each pocket flap, and three on each skirt plait, from hip downwards. The coat breast and skirts are lined with white, twilled silk (still supple) and the sleeves of fine, glazed white linen. The waistcoat is trimmed with similar silver-work buttons, but of ¾ inch diameter, 12 down the breast and three below each scalloped pocket flap. The lining of the standing collar and breast innerfacing are of white silk, while the remainder is lined with fine, glazed white linen. The breeches have four of the same silver-worked buttons on each knee and two for the fall, but have four 5/8 inch-dia., flat, silver “coin” buttons for the front closure and two mounted near the upper edge of each waistband for suspenders. The waistbands are lined with white linen, which also compose the pocket bags, while the wide fall is lined with a glazed, blue shalloon. All garments survive in exceptionally fine condition, the silk coat lining still supple—with one minor rent near the left armhole and a few tiny “snag” holes.
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