Dressed to Kill, Dressed to Till

Lot 124:

Napoleonic French Voltigeur Officer’s Coat, 1814 [Habit, Officier de Voltigeurs].

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Start price: $4,500

Estimated price: $9,000 - $18,000

Buyer's premium: 20%

Napoleon promulgated the new “Bardin” regulations for the dress of his Imperial Army in 1812, but it was only partly implemented by the following year. In the 1st Restoration of the Bourbon Monarchy in Spring 1814. All distinctions on French uniforms that bore the devices of the former Emperor were to be removed. On the turnbacks of coats, the blue Imperial crown over N devices of cut-cloth were to be replaced by two fleur de lys in the fusilier companies, but the elite flank companies of grenadiers and voltigeurs (light infantry) were to have red fleur de lys on one turnback and a flaming grenade or a bugle horn of red for grenadiers or light infantry, respectively, on the other. Buttons and cap plates that bore an Imperial eagle or N were to be replaced by ones with fleur de lys. This infantry officer’s coat of the 1812 pattern and specifications, bears the turnback changes specified for voltigeur companies and the gilded brass buttons are of the new pattern authorized and worn only during 1814-1815, which bore the royal Bourbon crown over a fleur de lys, within a raised rim. In all other respects, this coat is the standard infantry officer pattern as probably originally worn by an officer during his previous service under Napoleon I. The coat body is “royal” blue (renamed from what was previously termed “Imperial blue”), with scarlet collar, cuffs and piping to the white lapels and cuff slashes. The collar, breast and skirts are lined with white serge, while the back and sleeves are lined with brown linen. As most infantry regiments had numbered buttons and no change would likely be necessitated, it is most likely that this coat belonged to an officer of the newly-established Royal Regiment, which would have had such a distinction. A narrow, gold-laced cross-strap for an epaulette is on each shoulder near the seam, the corresponding buttons near the collar now missing. A name is inked on the linen back lining, but it is somewhat illegible due to fading. Each lapel has 7 small (18 mm) buttons, while they were 3 on each pocket slash (one missing from left one). There were three large (25mm) uniform buttons on each “long” pocket on the skirts and one on each hip, but one button is missing from the left pocket flap at present. The uniform is in very good condition, with some abrasion wear and a few holes in the lining serge. An extremely rare and highly desirable uniform of the Napoleonic epoch. With documentation.