Dressed to Kill, Dressed to Till
By 1803, at the height of its rule in India, the (British) East India Company had a private army of about 260,000 men (European and Indian) —twice the size of the British Army. The East India Company(EIC) or “John Company” as it was commonly-known, had both naval and military forces. There were three armies, each named after its respective presidency (or geographical administrative center: the Bengal Army, the Madras Army and the Bombay Army. In each of these armies, there were both European or “white” regiments and “native” Indian regiments, but both types were commanded by white (mostly British) officers. Infantry uniforms were generally red within all three armies, both with European and Indian units as in the British Army, distinguished by various facing colors and trimmings. Yellow, however, proved to be the most popular facing color—especially in the Bombay and Bengal armies. Officers’ uniforms were of superfine cloth and the more expensive and rich scarlet dye made from cochineal, as in this handsomely-cut “jacket” or short coat of a John Company officer. The jacket has a standing collar, lapels and cuffs of bright yellow superfine cloth, and half-turnbacks of white cassimere. The worked buttonholes on the facings are set in pairs or “by 2s” each terminating in a stamped, gilded brass button bearing the device of the EIC, a rampant lion holding the British crown. This form of uniform button could be found on the uniforms in all three presidencies, as well as worn on uniform of EIC ship officers. The pocket flaps are set diagonal or slashed on the skirts, and there are provisions for the wearing of an epaulette or wing on each shoulder, suggesting that this coat was likely worn by a light infantry officer. As befitting service in a hot climate, the coat is made as light as possible, with only breast innerfacings and skirt linings of white silk, with welted pockets set in the latter. There are half moon-shaped reinforcements of linen under the arms, probably also intended to reduce perspiration seepage at those points. A rent across the left breast has been skillfully mended and scattered insect browse on the coat filled, by the skilled hands of costume specialist, Dr. Karin Bohleke, PhD.
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